Friday 24 June 2011

Wandering the Strathfarrar hills.....

One of the places I've fancied going since we came here is Strathfarrar. It's a quite, beautiful glen with a gate that is manned by the gatekeeper in the cottage, with access in and out being restricted to certain hours.

With it being June, you can go in any time after 9am and leave until 8pm at the moment. I wasn't quite that early, but I was still parked up and ready to head up on a round of the four munros by 11.00am.

The initial walk up the path was pleasant but this turned into a boggy relentless trudge up steep slopes to the first summit of Sgurr Na Ruaidhe. The rain showers were crossing frequently and a chill wind was blowing up here...nothing like summer!

There was then a wonderful mossy descent to the low bealach between the first peak and Carn Nan Gobhar. It was a steep pull up there, although with fabulous views, with the last 200m being bouldery and slippy in the conditions. The good news was that the cloud was remaining above the summits and there were views in all directions - the Cromarty Firth, Ben Wyvis, the Fannaichs, the Mullardoch munros.

But what grabbed the attention more than anything was the very shapely next peak, Sgurr A Choire Ghlais. A beautiful cone, with an interesting looking path up to it. But first a quickish descent down to the bealach where I met my first person of the day - a very interesting man, who has a site "The Big Walks Club" and who, it turns out, is very interested in having a go at the Bob Graham. I assured him that, as a keen walker and decent runner, it was well within his grasp - especially since he was used to 12+ hour days in the hills.

After quite a long chat, I headed up the steep slopes, aware of a huge drop on the right into the coire, to emerge on the summit of the third munro. Again, the cloud was just above the top, giving some splendid views of the ridge to the next peak. The guide book had said it "narrows appreciably" but this wasn't really the case and it was in fact a splendid run along a high promenade to the final munro of the day, Sgurr Fhuar Thuill. For the first time, I was in cloud, and the rain turned to sleet then hail.

From the top of there, it was a beautiful, short grassy ridge run to pick up the stalker's path that runs down magnificently into the coire holding Loch Toll a Mhuic and then all the way down to the road. A 4 mile tarmac run then ensued on tired legs, but with breathtaking views to keep me busy, deer sitting idly by as I passed and a mind ticking over with possibilities for a long-distance route incorporating these hills.

A splendid day out in one of the best glens I've been down. I'll be back, with Kirsten next time. So much more to explore, with the rough ground around Loch Monar looking very enticing. A decent day out, around 15.5 miles and 5,200ft, all done in 5 hours including chats!

Thursday 16 June 2011

On a Clear Day You Can See Forever....

Another Wednesday, another chance to down tools and head out for a day in the hills. Well-timed this week as well, after the frustration of not getting out at all on Tuesday, glued to the PC trying to sort out a work issue.

The weather forecast was reasonable, but I awoke to rain and heavy grey clouds. The potential planned day out to Seana Braigh was dropped - I want good views when I go there. Instead, a plan formed to drive to the western end of Loch Glascarnoch and then, depending on conditions, either head south to a round of four munros, or north to the lonely munro Am Faochagach.

As it turned out, shafts of sunlight were bursting through the clouds by the time I parked by the weather station at the lochside and the clouds were noticeably lifting. So, decision made to head south, initially following the Abhainn an Torrain Duibh, to its junction with the Allt an Loch Sgeirich, where I headed up pathless slopes to skirt Creagh Dhubh Fannaich to reach the bealach below the first munro Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich, which was an easy climb up increasingly bouldery slopes.

The mist was swirling around the top, but there were some views to be had. But I didn't linger, instead heading west along the cliff edge towards Sgurr Mor. Here a decision had to be made. I'd been up Sgurr Mor before and it was completely hidden by cloud. On its lower flanks, an impressive stalker's path winds its way across steep slopes to emerge below Meall nam Peithirean. I decided to take that, although it looked as though it was perched precariously above the drop.

In fact, it was no such thing and was a joy to trot around. Soon enough I was climbing the slopes of the intermediary top of Meall nam Peithirean and looking back to gain magnificent views of Sgurr Mor, on which the cloud had now gathered in the northern coire and was billowing up across the top, looking like an active volcano.

The route continued south-east onto the flat-topped munro of Meall Gorm and then down to the Bealach Ban. If my understanding of that is right, it's the "fair" bealach or "white" bealach? If so, that would seem to come from the strip of very light-coloured grass which rings the top of the coire lip.

From the bealach, it was a short pull up to the final munro of An Coileachan, from where it was obvious that the weather was closing in quickly, low cloud inching its way across the sky and rain now falling incessantly. From the top, it was a pathless steep drop, avoiding the crags, to pick up a path on the eastern side of Loch Gorm, which eventually dropped down to join the burn and a boggy, tough run of around 4 miles back to the car.

A wonderful day out on wild, remote hills. Fantastic views down to Loch Fannaich and across to the hills of the great wilderness. Definitely somewhere I shall be returning to explore more.

Tuesday 14 June 2011

Who knows where the time goes......

We're off to support Dave A's Bob Graham this weekend. I can't wait. For several reasons;
a) It's been a good while since we were in the Lakes. I've quite missed it. Of course, there IS nowhere like Scotland and the mountains have a totally different quality to them up here. But it's still fantastic and much more accessible on foot than up here.
b) It's going to bring back some fantastic memories, of one of the best days of my life. And there's no doubt that's why a lot of BG folk go on supporting. They love to help others to achieve that same dream and they get a surge of memories as they head around the route again and cheer successful people in at the Moot Hall.
c) And, most importantly, Dave is a top person. He came out and helped on 3 legs for me last year, having never been involved in the BG before. On top of that, he's gone about his BG in the "right" way. He's supported so many rounds it's untrue, he's got out there, alone sometimes, with friends at others, and reccied and come to love and appreciate the route. And I know he understands the importance of the legacy and spirit of the BG. I really can't wait to see him run up to the Moot Hall on Saturday!

I do confess to being a little nervous about whether I can keep up with him. My fitness isn't at last year's levels and I've got a few niggles. But hopefully others will slow him down first and/or he'll be wanting to slow down and appreciate the views and make the most of the day on leg 4 with a sub-24 in the bag! I can but hope!!

But for now, a few memories......










Monday 13 June 2011

This is just the best place in the world........

You can't beat Scotland, you really can't. I've been a few places and enjoyed them, I'd like to go to the Himalayas and the Andes. But I'm sure my heart will remain here in Scotland, wherever I am, and I'll always look forward to returning.

Six weeks on from the move, and we're probably now at a point (with us both working - albeit part-time for me) where reality sinks in and the holiday feeling leaves. And yet we talked about it yesterday and both agreed that life up here is just lovely, we feel right at home and we can't see ourselves ever moving back down south. But who knows what the future holds?

Any, living in the present, we headed out for a first "proper" hill day on Saturday, Rufus in the care of Russell the dogwalker for the day!

On Thursday, after much speculation, they announced the location for this year's LAMM...and it was only 30 miles up the road from us, starting at Inverlael Farm. It seemed opportune to go and do the circuit of the four "Beinn Dearg" munros and, at the same time, enjoy watching LAMMers heading all over the hillsides in search of flags and dibbers!

It dawned a beautiful morning, and we were parked up not long after 9am, having seen various groups being driven out on buses to start their LAMM at locations up near Loch Glascarnoch. Some started at Inverlael, and the last few were just setting off as we headed into the forests. Before setting off, we headed over to the start field to see if we could pick up a map - it'd be good practice to follow the courses at some point. A very kind marshall supplied us with 2 laminated maps....plenty to keep us going and I've already spent considerable time poring over it!

It was warm as we trotted the initial path in bright sunshine, through the forest. We emerged on the other side, and followed the path almost all the way to Lochan a Cnapaich before heading north-east up onto the summit plateau, where plenty of people were dibbing at the summit. A wonderful view from the summit, taking in the Fannaichs to the south, An Teallach standing majestically to the west. Beyond that, the hills of Torridon could be picked out, as could the Fisherfield Six and Slioch. The the north-west, the magnificent Sutherland monoliths stood in all their glory - Stac Pollaidh, Cul Beag, Cul Mor, Suilven, Canisp and Quinag. And, closer at hand, there were fantastic views across to the remote munro of Seana Braigh.

Having taken in the views, we headed down south-east to the bealach, passing plenty of LAMMers on the score event going the other way, before turning south-west and making our way through rocky crags to the second munro of the day, Meall nan Ceapraichean. As we did so, I spotted a ptarmigan close to us amongst the rocks. It made no move, despite our close proximity. We found out why a few seconds later, as 3 tiny ptarmigan chicks trotted out from behind a rock close by! At this, the mother turned agressive (as far as you can when you're a ptarmigan!) and flew towards us then started making as much noise as possible, following us until we were well away from her babies! What a wonderful privilege to see them.

Beyond them, a wee bit of rock-hopping brought us to the top (and another LAMM dibber). Again, wonderful panoramic views, with the cliffs of Beinn Dearg now prominent (together with the incredible "destitution wall" which runs along the ridge.

From there, it was quite a drop down to the lochans below Cona Mheall. It was a tough slog up there, through shattered screes near the top, to a summit which lays bare the whole, wild landscape of this area. The coire between it and Beinn Dearg must be one of the finest in Scotland, the ridge coming up from the south-east looks terrifyingly narrow with precipitous drops on both sides.

We returned to the lochans and headed across to the wall which runs up through rough, scrambly ground almost to the summit of Beinn Dearg. We both enjoyed a little use of our hands as we toiled our way up, then emerged onto the vast summit plateau of this big mountain.

By now, the weather was starting to change and rain showers could be seen all around. Cloud was lowering as well and we didn't hesitate in making our way off down the ridge, following the wall. It's rough going though, very little chance to run, and progress was slow initially. Eventually we dropped down to a flat section, where steep, heathery slopes to our right led us down to the main path through the valley. In increasingly heavy rain, we trotted down, enjoying the chance to stretch our legs but feeling slightly fatigued from a rough day out.

We got back to the car and dived for cover, sparing a thought for those still out there or still setting up tents at the midway camp. They were in for a rough night. The rain was very heavy as we drove back, to our beautiful house, a warm fire, homemade Thai curry...and chips! All washed down with a Glencoe stout, the perfect end to a perfect day!

Thursday 9 June 2011

Thieving, money-grabbing bastards with no conscience....

Did that get your attention? It ought to.

A couple of weeks ago, me and Kirsten cycled up the steep hill to the Heights of Dochcarty, dumped the bikes by the stream crossing, and toiled our way up to the bealach just to the east of the Cioch Mor.

The wind was howling through the gap, rain battered us. We headed over to the far side of the col to gaze down into a wild valley, with a sharp pull beyond which takes you onto one of the outlying ridges of Ben Wyvis, the iconic mountain around these parts.

It's a truly wild scene. No sign of human habitation. Pretty much pathless. An uninterrupted, glorious view into a natural world.

Fast forward to this morning, and a leaflet is dropped on our doorstep, inviting us to a "presentation" to be held about......the new "wind farm" that they want to erect. Guess where? In that remote and beautiful area we stared down at in awe. Their visual representations show so clearly that it these ugly monstrosities will dominate the view of Ben Wyvis from anywhere in the east. I'm presuming even from Inverness?

I won't even bother to go into the politics of wind factories and the fact that the technology is effectively disproved as unreliable and too costly. Look up what's happening in Denmark. Read what the Germans have said post-Fukushima (hint: no more nuclear, but definitely NOT turning to wind power).

Wind power is all about profits for multinationals and landowners and there is a whole industry growing up around it, full of people trying to make a fast buck by spoiling our landscape forever. Have they no conscience at all? Are they really that smug, sitting in their million pound pads in the middle of built-up cities? I suspect I know the answer.

And even as I write, it's dawned on me that, Inverness Airport being where it is, visitors upon landing will immediately gaze across at the mountain that dominates the skyline....and be confronted by a man-made scene which strips away the feeling of wilderness that they've probably come to the Highlands for.

When and where will it all end?

Wednesday 8 June 2011

Up the Ben

Up here, "The Ben" is not Ben Nevis. Inverness has its very own "Ben", that dominates the skyline....Ben Wyvis. Just under 3,500ft high, but a high whaleback of a mountain, very important by reason of some of the flowers and mosses that grow on it's slopes and summit plateau.

And it rises up straight behind our house!

But, somehow, we'd not made it up there yet. Yesterday was my day off and, with the weather looking distinctly unpromising (ruling out a drive further afield to the Affric munros), but the legs itching to head up a big hill, I decided to head up the Ben from the main car park at Garbat.

As I arrived, the rain was pelting down and clouds scuttled across the sky at a swift speed. The top of the first summit, An Cabar, was well into the cloud, and I took a look at the map again to get a rough bearing to follow on the summit.

Coat donned, buff pulled up around my face, I headed out from the car along the pleasant path that makes its way through the woods. After about 10 minutes, I spied a couple of young deer on the opposite bank of the burn and, realising I was downwind of them, stealthily approached, being careful with my foot placement. Sure enough, I was a matter of 20ft away from them before they spotted me. Rather than scooting off into the nearby trees, they stood transfixed (as did I!) watching me. We stood for about 5 minutes, them waiting for my move, me taking in the beauty of the scene and these marvellous young animals. Only when I started to shiver in the driving rain, did I turn and make my way, as the deer scuttled down the bank and into the burn. Magical.

Pretty soon I was heading up the steep pull to An Cabar. Clouds swirled by, and the wind picked up in intensity, causing me to steady myself using my hands a couple of times. Finally, I sensed I was summiting this first shapely peak, and I could hear the wind whistling over the rocks above me. I popped up onto the top and was hit by the full force of the ferocious weather. The hood was pulled further down, gloves donned and buff pulled further up, before heading forward, attempting to make progress along the summit plateau against a howling gale which threatened to pick me up and deposit me over the Western slopes of the mountain.

The main summit was further than I expected, beyond an intermediary top. I tried to run as best I could, but progress itself was hard work! I finally saw the trig point and headed towards it. Not a day for stopping, I touched, looked around at the non-existent view, and headed straight back down! The wind at my back was seemingly even more insistent and, on one occasion, it almost took my legs from under me with a vicious gust!

It was a relief to drop back down under the summit of An Cabar and enjoy a leisurely run, coming down out of the swirling clouds to take in views down Loch Glascarnoch one way and past Loch Luichart further to the south. The irony was that the weather to the west looked brighter!

I dropped down to the car, having taken about 2.30 of walking/running time up and down. It would be a fair bit less on a decent day!! Soaking wet clothes were changed immediately, and I headed down to the Old Station cafe for a warming cup of coffee.

I think I shall enjoy exploring the Ben. It's more complex than you would imagine when viewing it from the West. I got glimpses along the valley to the east (to the south of which our house lies), and it looked wild, untrodden land.

But for now, I thoroughly enjoyed my trip out to my local hill!

Thursday 2 June 2011

Out of Affric

Yesterday was my "official" day off each week. No work planned, dog-walker booked in for lunchtime, so I had to go out and enjoy myself!

Only trouble was, the forecast was for 70mph winds on the tops and driving, heavy rain showers. So what to do? Well one of the joys of Scotland, more than anywhere else in the UK, is the ability to have a wonderful day out on lower paths, exploring hidden, remote and wild valleys.

Incredibly, I'd never been to Glen Affric. It's talked of in glowing terms, as being one of Scotland's real treasures. But it is off the beaten track a wee bit, requiring a trip west of Inverness down narrow single-track roads.

But I found a marvellous route around Loch Affric on www.walkhighlands.co.uk and decided that would make a perfect trip out. 11.25 miles, fairly low level but heading into the wilderness.

And indeed it was splendid. A beautiful valley, with native woodland being allowed to grow again (thanks to deer fences), vast precipitous slopes stretching up above to the high tops, cascading waterfalls crashing down towards the lochside and a runnable path.

The weather wasn't marvellous. Intermittent heavy rain coupled with near-constant light drizzle. But it was warm and so I hardly noticed, enjoying myself as I was. Plenty of stops to take in the magnificent scenery, especially near the far end of the loch. Ahead, dominating the scenery was the fine ridge of Mullach Froach Choire - startling to think that the other end of this ridge drops down to the Cluanie Inn, just a few miles away....wow!

At the end of the loch, in a marvellous remote location, lies Strawberry Cottage, a climbing hut belonging to the An Teallach Mountaineering Club....I think I'll be looking to book in there for a couple of nights sometime!

As I turned back towards the car, the wind was now behind me. Just as well, as the rain turned even heavier. But I was still going well and enjoying myself, and the coat hood was down (meaning I was getting a thorough soaking!). In no time at all, I was heading back down the hillside and towards the car park, finishing in just over 2 hours....quite speedy really!

Affric is somewhere I shall be returning constantly, I can sense it. There are some terrific munros to ascend, and plenty more to explore, with the Alltbeithe Youth Hostel only a couple of miles beyond the end of the loch. A quick look at the map indicates the potential for a splendid cross-country backpacking trip, starting over in Kintail and finishing, perhaps, at Cannich...one to plan.

Did I mention that living in Scotland is just fabulous?!!? :-)